
Here be monsters.
Today is why God made Saturdays and Brahma made Los Angeles. Seventy degrees and sunny, with a hundred percent chance of paradise.
Today is a day when all sane people go to the beach.
In our case, Leo Carillo. Dog-friendly, toddler-welcoming, and blissfully uncrowded.
We start getting ready at 9, leave at 11, and arrive at just after noon. The toddler swims, the dog runs, the mom chills, and the dad frolics with all of the preceding.
Alright.
We discuss stopping at Malibu Seafood on the way home. It’s a favorite haunt. But we have Miss Basil with us, and they frown on pets, so we decide against it.
But wait! This whole Year of the Cow action has taught me a thing or two. One of which is that a person can frequently do restaurant-y food at home with good results.
I’m coming home from the beach, but I don’t want to leave.
My wife wants a steak, I want some seafood. I have a cow in the freezer, a chip on my shoulder, and nothing at all to lose.
“Hey, honey. How about some Surf and Turf?”
Let’s swing for the fences. Let’s shoot for the moon. Let’s take advantage of the fact that I have a quarter ton of beef in my backyard.
She’s game. I wheel toward the grocery store.
Lobster and filet mignon. Okay, I realize this meal borders on stunt food. It’s basically the two most expensive items on the menu, paired together. It’s ostentatious. It’s self-conscious. Maybe even a little cliche.
But it also sounds good.
If there’s a silver lining to the very dark cloud of our current international recession, it’s that lobster prices have fallen through the floor. What used to be sixteen bucks a pound is now in the neighborhood of nine. Bad for Maine, good for diners.
My local food-and-sundries vendor has a live tank. I’m looking for something in the pound and a half range, and they can oblige.
However, I read cookbooks for fun. And one thing I’ve learned is that just because a lobster is alive doesn’t mean that he’s fresh. I ask to examine my crustacean dinner guest.
The fish guy, Clive, lifts him up, and he pitches a fit. That’s good. Tired lobsters are not fresh lobsters. Claws and legs akimbo, he really wants to take a bite out of Clive. His midsection is firm (the lobster, not Clive). He weighs 1.38 pounds. A good fit for us. I’ll take him.
Evidentally this is Clive’s first rodeo, because he has to ask his manager how to pack up the lobster. His manager shoves a cardboard box in his direction. I’ve never bought a live lobster before. I envisioned my taking him home in an oversized goldfish baggie. Not so much I guess.
I load up my box o’ lobster like a pie in a diner and head for the exit, stopping only for butter and a brewsky to pair it with.
As I leave, I can hear the lobster scratching at the box lid. That’s creepy.
Once home, I open the box, frighten the wife, freak out the dog, and re-examine the crustacean. He really is fascinating to behold.

Here’s the thing about lobsters… They’re referred to colloquially as “bugs,” but that’s actually pretty accurate. One of their closest relatives is the cockroach. The closest analogy to their brain structure is that of a grasshopper…. and the word “brain” is used pretty loosely here. It’s more like a collection of ganglia. They’re cool-looking, but their nervous system is rudimentary at best.

What a punum.
They used to be thick as thieves in the North Atlantic. They’re heavily fished now, but once upon a time, they were considered Sea Vermin. In fact, in the 1800s, so many washed ashore after storms in New England that they were forced on indigent widows, orphans, and prisoners. Massachusetts had to pass a law that convicts in the state penal system couldn’t be fed lobster more than twice a week. Poor bastards.
Still, I’m gonna be killing this thing, and I’d like it to be as painless and humane as possible.
Suggestions vary. The Larousse says that two hours in a freezer will cause a lobster to go to sleep and then painlessly die. At which point, a cook can proceed with whatever cooking process they like (steaming, in my case) with absolute certainty that said crustacean is deceased.
Alton Brown says twenty minutes is enough to render said invertebrate insensate. In other words, close enough that it makes no difference.
Bittman says I’m a pansy, and should just drop ‘em in hot water.
I vote for certainty with the Larousse. Two hours it is. I take a moment, because I don’t do this lightly. Then, into the freezer.
Meanwhile, I clarify some butter, and bring a filet mignon to room temp.

Two hours later, my bug is dead, dead, dead. I pull him out. Basil still doesn’t trust him.
The mise:

Simple, eh?

Four legs good, six legs freaky.
I put an inch of water in a large pot to boil. This is gonna be good.
My lobster twitches. This is a little creepy, but I’m ready for it. I’ve read that they do this sometimes after they die. Something about post-mortem nerve reflexes. I reflect again, but this is a glorified sea cockroach. Everything’s good.
I throw some oiled-and-salted potatoes into the preheated oven to bake.
Lobster twitches again. I could never make frog legs. This is unnerving.
Was that leg in that position a minute ago?

Must have been.

Or was it?
That is post-mortem twitching right?
I tap the shell.
The lobster stands up.
I jump about fifteen feet in the air. Omigodomigodomigod.
That is not post mortem twitching!
I know what you’re thinking. Undead zombie lobster hell-bent on seeking their revenge on the living.
Yep. Pretty much.
What the hell?
I pick up the board, and pop the whole thing back in the freezer.

I sit quietly for a while, and put myself in a good place, psychologically. My wife and kid don’t need to know about this. This is what nightmares are made of.
Look at them. Frolicking outside. So innocent. So unknowing.
Is that something scraping at the door of my freezer?
No. It can’t be. Ignore it.
Twenty minutes more. Nothing lives through that. Especially nothing without a circulatory system.
Wife and child seem happy. Dog is quiet. Water is boiling. Time to cook.
I crack open the freezer door. Lobster corpse.
Out we come. Everything’s good.
Bittman says to rinse briefly. No problem. Under the faucet for a couple of seconds…
…AND THE LEFT CLAW FLIES OFF. It falls clattering into the sink.
What the…!
I drop the lobster.
This is not right. Did I get a defective bug?
Google.
“Lobsters sometimes jettison or throw their claws as a defensive mechanism.“
WHAT THE GREAT GALLOPING HELL?
After all this bug has been through, IT IS STILL ALIVE.
…and it’s taking all this personally. It chucked its claw to freak me out.
It succeeded.
Okay, fine. I was trying to be humane. I wanted this to be painless. But you’re flinging dismembered limbs at me when you’re supposed to be asleep and docile and silent. I did everything I could to end your life painlessly. And now I just don’t want you to crawl across the floor and strangle me in my sleep, you undead zombie vampire crustacean bastard, you.
Water’s boiling. Headfirst, throwing the claw in after. Ten-count, then I hop around in the living room going ew, ew, ew, ew, who throws limbs at people? I am freaked right out.

Just die already.
How’s my son? Wife? Dog? Good? Okay.
Ten seconds later, lobster is dead. Supposedly.
Didn’t I have some clarified butter around here? I thought so. Salt and pepper, high heat, steak into a skillet. I’m sauteeing it in clarified butter, as per a suggestion in the Larousse. I hope this advice is more accurate than their instructions on how to dispatch a lobster.
A few minutes later… flip. Steak looks fantastic.

Eight minutes a pound on my zombie lobster. Ten minutes later, a probe in his tail registers a temperature of 150. Good to go.
My wife sees I’m pale as a ghost. “You alright, babe?” Yeah, sweetie, I’m fine. The undead walk among us, they lack vertebrae, they resent our very existence, and hate us enough to fling their own limbs at us. I’ll never sleep soundly again. But other than that, I’m peachy keen.
Steak is medium rare. Lobster is ready. Potatoes are done.
Let’s go outside.
Lobster. Filet Mignon. Baked potatoes. Icy cold beer.
I sit down to dinner.

While making this meal was something out of an H.P. Lovecraft tale, the end result is pretty lovely.
Verdict? About what you’d expect. Heartbreakingly delicious. The lobster is moist and sweet. The tenderloin is like butter… lush and juicy and mild. A dead simple meal to make, and one that yields spectacular results. What a great end to a Saturday. I could get used to this.
The Wife Says: 9.5 out of 10. Super tasty, tender, succulent and delicious.
After dinner, we clean up. I put all the lobster detritus in the trash can in our alley.
Then I put a brick on the lid.
And I go inside, and lock the door.
